Does anyone know the part number for the Dometic electric switch?
Before our most recent camping (3rd for us) trip in our NTU PUP I hooked up the electricity the day before to cool down the fridge. It cooled down and I packed it. I switched to battery for the travel to keep it cool. When we got to the campsite I switched back to electricity and by evening I noticed our food was no longer cold. The fridge quit working on 110v so I switched back to battery and I felt the back get hot again as if it was working. I think it could be the switch.
We moved everything to coolers because I was unsure how long the battery lasted and we have know idea how to operate the propane part. Any advice there is appreciated. How much propane would be used?
Depending on how much use that fridge has had on 100v, it could be you need a replacement heating element.
It is 10 years old. I replaced one on a norcold a few years back. The part is not expensive,, but was a pain to install.
I don't think it's the switch if the gas and 12v sides work.
First off make sure your breakers are ok and that the gfi isn't tripped.
Good luck.
When I had to email Dometic to get a part number for my fridge, they were extremely helpful. I would agree that the switch is suspect if it isn't clicking like it used to, however I'd do some testing first to make sure that you're not replacing parts that don't necessarily need replacing.
You should be able to diagnose where the problem is with one of those non-contact voltage testers (like this: ) which you can pick up at any home center in the electrical aisle.
What I would do:
1) Unplug the fridge and insert the tip of the tester into the smaller of the two slots in the receptacle (my old popup had a 110v receptacle in the fridge compartment. If your fridge is hard-wired, just hold it to the "incoming" wire), and it should light up. If it doesn't, the problem is most likely a tripped breaker in your power center or a tripped GFCI.
2) Plug in the fridge and touch the tester to the wire somewhere close to the switch. It should light up. If not, the problem is a break in the wire or the plug/receptacle not making contact. While possible, this is probably not the issue.
3) Turn on the switch and test the wire(s) between the switch and the fridge. If the tester lights, it's probably the heating element. If it doesn't, it's probably the switch.
While the tester may cost a few extra dollars, it should prevent the need to buy parts you don't need.
Thanks for the replies to MycaPies thread. I have tested the switch with my ohm meter and it would appear that the switch is bad. It's a 4 blade rocker switch rated as 20A / 125vac - 16A / 250vac. Now we have to see if Dometic will sell just the green switch or try and force us to purchase the whole switch assembly. I have located just the switch on ebay for about $4 shipped but, would prefer factory parts if I have the option and the price is right.
The tester that twstdpear recommended is a cool little tool but, the one I bought doesn't seem to give a good reading on wires with thicker insulation (like our camper). Still cool tool that I will definitely use another time. My digital multi-meter and A/C power tester have been what I have used to get me where I'm at.
I just need the switch and install it to confirm my fix. I'll update this thread as I learn more.
Thanks again for the replies 🙂
I'm glad you were able to identify the switch as the culprit. As one of my old co-workers used to say, "there's not a lot of there there", so I'm fairly confident once you replace the switch, you should be good. If you can't get just the switch, you may find that Radio Shack, Mouser.com or some other electronics seller might have an equivalent part. $4 is hard to beat, however.
Regarding the recommendation of getting a non-contact voltage tester, I guess I am so used to be being the only person I know that has a multimeter, I never thought to ask if you had one.
Just to follow up. I found a similar switch on ebay for $4.22 and it's lighted when turned on. It is almost identical to the factory switch which I had no luck finding. It even fits the opening with no problems and the factory wiring without modification.
Hope this helps if someone else is having the same problem.
Hey there,
Do you have a link or a description of the switch you bought off ebay? I'm looking at picking one up as well....
[quote author=GIXXERKELLY link=topic=2599.msg25267#msg25267 date=1376163618]
Just to follow up. I found a similar switch on ebay for $4.22 and it's lighted when turned on. It is almost identical to the factory switch which I had no luck finding. It even fits the opening with no problems and the factory wiring without modification.
Hope this helps if someone else is having the same problem.
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