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Anyone have issues getting the PUP door to pop in place
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4 Posts
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March 17, 2014 - 7:46 pm
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Hello. I have a new to me 95 Viking PuP and have never been able to get the door to secure in place after popping it up. I have had a though of using a squeeze clamp to help pop the aluminum hinge into place. Will this cause any problems? Trying to place it with the pup fully leveled and rolled up with no luck yet.

Any tricks I can try?

Thanks in advance!

~ Rante

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382 Posts
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March 17, 2014 - 8:34 pm
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You may have to adjust your lift cables to get the roof to fully lift the roof may not be all the way up ask around  and look in here if anyone knows how to adjust the lift cables properly

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4 Posts
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March 17, 2014 - 8:46 pm
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My canvas is fully tight when I am trying to place the door too, so it really cannot go up any further.

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71 Posts
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March 18, 2014 - 6:47 am
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Picture please.

I bought my current PUP new and had a hard time at first.  Gets a little easier each time.

It's hard for me to get the bottom to slide into place.  I stand outside with the door open so I can lift and push with both hands.

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1573 Posts
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March 18, 2014 - 8:37 am
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It is a general consensus when having troubles with door alignment to make sure the trailer is really level, both side to side and front to back. On my trailer, my door will not go in at all unless I have front to back perfectly level.

Martini Glass The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they just make the best of everything that they have!
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March 18, 2014 - 10:53 am
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Do you have the bunk ends extended when you are trying to get the door in? We had a similar issue with our 91 Pal Filly when we first got it. Someone on another forum told me to only pull the bunk ends out far enough to give ourselves enough room to work with the door. By not having the ends extended & tight, it gave us the wiggle room we needed to snap the door in place. After we got the door in, then we would extend the bunks the rest of the way & set up the canvas.

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March 18, 2014 - 10:57 am
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I do have them extended. I will try with the bunk ends in. If I needed to use a squeeze clamp to get the needed pressure, will this harm anything? I know this door was in place, however tight when we bought it.

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306 Posts
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March 18, 2014 - 12:57 pm
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On our Viking I would sometimes have trouble with the door snapping into place. With the weight of a bag awning on the side, the roof seemed to lean a little towards the door side. After the roof was fully up I would just push it back a little towards the street side. Doing so helped to get the door in place a little easier.

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175 Posts
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March 22, 2014 - 12:10 am
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We had trouble with getting the bottom of the door snapped into place since we bought it new a year ago.  The dealer adjusted the up limit on the power lift and it worked great one time.  Since then, when we get ready for that part, I stand in the PUP and push up on the roof a little and DW pops the bottom in.  Works great and we don't have to fight it.  It is easier however if you put the door in place before you zip down the 4 corner zippers.
Hope this helps. 

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271 Posts
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March 22, 2014 - 7:38 pm
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Make sure you are level side-to-side and front-to-back; as level as you can be. My older Viking Epic had a two-piece door that was a b**** to fit. My new Epic has a one-piece door that fits nicely (as long as I'm level). Being level is the key.

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March 22, 2014 - 7:46 pm
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TKnect, I did level it. Even purchased a BAL leveler to ensure it got level. Mine is a 2 piece door as well with the aluminum flex panel mounted to the interior roof. Another thing to note is that this pop up had an attempted break in which caused the edge to be pulled away and a small dip in the roof where the door mounts. I think this is contributing to my troubles.

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