It is about time to replace my front brakes on my 2007 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Pickup. I tow a TT that is 5,000#'s. I want to make sure I get good brakes and have been reading a little bit about them but there is a lot of information and opinions out there.
1) what type of brake pad do I want? I read that high friction pads stop well but are noisy. What is a high friction pad? I usually hear of Organic, Metallic, or Semi-Metallic brake pads.
2) What type of Rotor do I want. Slotted, OEM, drilled holes? I understand that rotors with slots or holes dissipate the heat better and the pads grab on the multiple edges for increased stopping power when you initially apply the brakes.
3) If I change the rotors and pads to aggressively stop up front, must I change the back to a similar setup at the same time or can I do those in a few months?
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
Rock Auto has a 4 wheel kit by Power Stop that I got for my 2013 Yukon XL a couple years ago, it is under their heavy duty banner and it comes with cross drilled rotors and severe duty pads. Haven't had a problem with them and no noise. Price wasn't bad either. They do have front or back available, but I did all the way around at the same time. Also, the drilled rotors dissipate heat and less likely to warp.
This is what I looked up for your truck.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/ca.....+kit,13824
Best Regards,
Norm
$400 for all 4 wheels or $200 front or rear....that's doable.
I want to research the pads to see if there is multiple options or variations that Toyota used on my year. Honestly I am a little concerned with getting parts online and when they come they are the wrong ones due to options the manufacturer had.
I got brakes for my Dodge 1500 and I answered all of the questions pep boys asked me in the store and when I got home they were wrong. I was pissed because this wasn't the first time this particular Pep Boys has screwed me with wrong parts. Lets just say I am happy that an Advanced Auto Parts opened up nearby.....But I don't think the stores carry the heavy duty brakes that I want for towing, slotted or drilled rotors, etc. so I need to order online.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
I finally got a chance to research the brakes to see if there are variations of the brakes depending on the Tundra Model or engine or anything. It looks like the front brakes and rotors are the same for a 2007 regardless of the model, SR5, Limited, Tundra, or the engine size 4.0, 4.7, or 5.7. I have the SR5 5.7. The cab configuration does not even come up, 2wd or 4wd as a question. The part number is even similar across the brands. CARQUEST, Wagner, Raybestos, RockAuto is XXX 1303 for the brake pad.
It looks like the kit I want from RockAuto is K295236 which is the front brake pads, rotors, clips and shims for $211.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
I finally had a chance to work on the brakes last night. The lugnuts were on so tight that I bent my 4way. I broke them with the regular tire iron. Then the wheel was frozen to the hub and had to whack it quite a few times to free it. I look over the springs that hold the pads to the caliper and it doesn't look right. One of them is broken and I'm studying it and scratching my head until I realize that the previous brake job put an extra spring in there and that spring broke and that is what looks odd. OK, I go to take the caliper off and I don't have a 17mm socket, (16 and then 18 in my set wtf?) so I use a 17mm wrench because I know I don't want to round the bolt. The wrench bent open :tickedoff:
it was 8pm and I haven't even taken the other tire off. Sooooo I throw in the towel and put the tire back on. I need to decide my next steps.....buy a 17mm socket and do it on a Saturday when I have more time or just ask my mechanic to install my parts.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
If. I was you, I try a box wrench for initial breaking the bolt free, not a ratching one ,or buy a good 17mm 6 point socket, and use a long breaker bar, leverage is your friend here, also try soaking the bolts over night and rehitting them tomorrow with some pb blaster. Stuff works great, wish you Good luck.
I finally got around to looking at my brakes. It went much smoother this time. I think doing it on a Saturday afternoon -vs- a cold evening made it go a lot easier 🙂 I went to the store looking for a 17mm socket to use with my breaking bar and I found this awesome set of Bolt extractor sockets for $25. It grabs the bolt in the center of the flat part instead of the edges that would be rounded off. All of the caliper bolts came right off with no problem. Even the other wheel that I had not taken off the last time came right off :jig:
So far my truck stops so I am happy with the new pads and rotors.
[IMG]http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q752/CamperDude/brakes_zpsb7vuns8l.jpg[/img]
[IMG]http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q752/CamperDude/socket_zpsdrgqcpwa.jpg[/img]
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
Cindy,
You buy the brakes and rotors and I'll let you use my tools and I'll tell you what to do.
Everyone else,
$5 gets you a lawn chair and 2 beers to watch from my driveway...date TBD :cheers:
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
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