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First winter check....not good
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2545 Posts
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December 10, 2011 - 4:09 pm
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I have come to the conclusion that it is best to open the camper up and check on it throughout the winter.  One year I did not do that and mice got in.  Last year I checked on it about every 5 weeks.  Each time I added more drier sheets and mouse poison....those suckers are not living in my camper again. 

Back in October I noticed my roof was wet on the inside.  I painted and resealed the roof over the summer...WTF!!!!  So I said enough with this no tarp stuff, I'm tarping it.  I bought a good heavy duty tarp that fit perfect on the roof.  I open it up today and I have droplets on the ceiling....WTF!!!  I have the tongue way up in the air so there is no standing water on the roof.  I do not have it "tented".  I am going to see if I can do that today.  I only need to make it to January when I move into my new house that has a 2 car garage....or should I say a 1 car 1 camper garage......1 more month, come, think dry.

Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer.  Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.

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December 10, 2011 - 4:41 pm
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Did you buy a tarp the breaths? It might be condensation

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December 10, 2011 - 5:24 pm
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No, It doesn't breath.  It is a 13 mml gray tarp from Harbor Freight.  If the roof is watertight, why does a waterproof tarp cause problems on the inside.  I really don't get that.  I understand how the breathability can mess with an ABS roof by trapping the heat, but I have a traditional 2 piece aluminum coleman roof. 

I can't wait to get this in the garage.  Because we are buying a new house a new camper is not even in the distant horizon. 

Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer.  Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.

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December 10, 2011 - 6:27 pm
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Because moist air is getting to the trailer from places other than the roof - from the bottom of the trailer, through the side vents, tiny holes in the bottom, etc.... Once it gets inside by normal air osmosis, the temp in the trailer is warmer, so the relative humidity rises and the temperature increases and the dew point decreases. With a normal roof and a breathable cover, the warmer moist air works it way back out. Being totally sealed it has no where to go so once the temperature goes down, the water in the air comes out as droplets.

Don't confuse water tight with air tight.

Martini Glass The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they just make the best of everything that they have!
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December 10, 2011 - 8:06 pm
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Phil, that is the best explanation I have ever heard....and it makes sense.  And yes, whenever someone says breathable, I always think "not water proof" and wondered....why do they bother covering it?

Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer.  Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.

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December 10, 2011 - 8:27 pm
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Thats the Flight Instructor in me explaining fog to a pilot. Its the exact same explanation....

Martini Glass The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they just make the best of everything that they have!
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December 11, 2011 - 7:06 am
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I'd try putting a container of 'Damp Rid' in the PUP, and very carefully check/empty/replace periodically. 

It wasn't raining when I closed my PUP, but it was very, very humid.  When I got it home and re-opened a few days later, cushions, bedding all felt damp, and I saw a bit of meldew around the fridge.  Wiped all down, turned on the furnace for a bit, had the fan on the AC going, and all seemed to dry out.  Re-closed and opened a few days later - all okay. 

The sun hits my roof most of each day, so while the inside of the camper might be one temp, the roof/ceiling gets warmed.  My fridge vents let in humidity, as do the holes my water lines go through in the floor.

The damp rid works well.  I have a container in my bathroom as well as one at the entry. 

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