What Coleman/Fleetwood parts are "hard" to find?
Most parts on my "old" Coleman are standard parts that can be found in most RV dealer's "Wholesale Distributors Catalog" (ie: Suppliers like Coast, Danzy etc...). Plumbing, Electrical, Accessories, door handles/latches/locks, heaters, fridges, A/C, fans, vents, Wheels/hubs etc...
Body/roof panels are the hardest (too unique plus many years/models/styles) - they most likely will not re-produce them (if they even have the forms/molds etc..). Can quite easily create a replacement using heavy sheet metal or wood/fiberglass
The "proprietary" roof lift systems parts are available from 3rd party people (wiffletree or the telescopic lifting arms). Other parts are available from OTHER companies that bought up the Fleetwood OLD stock.
Discalmer - I use to (past tense) work at a company that produced there own "Wholesale Distributors Catalog" mentioned above.
Yesterday, I called my close est dealer which is near Columbia South Carolina. I have a friend interested in a Niagara like mine. The salesman on the phone stated the dealership has put in a order for a couple, but none have been made or shipped yet. He figures the price could be $15-16,000. I feel is a fair price. He stated that they had a few E-2 & E-3 in stock. I asked about getting some of the hard to find coleman/fleetwood parts in at the dealer since somerset has the rights now. He could not answer the question since he was in sales. But he was wondering as well.
From what I am hearing some of the hinge entry doors from the earlier units, some of the replacement roofs. Yes I know A Rv dealer bought the reserve parts and I have had to use them for the hooked shock cord ends for under the bunk ends. I know most parts are from differnt manufactors such as dometic and such. It would be nice to find from other resources.
I found Coleman and most other RV trailers very fixable. Finding exact replacement for really old trailer-not so...but with more modern "replacement" - a bit of rework and then is suitable replacement. (Some time a overhaul is needed - like replace all plumbing due to non-standards)
Bunkend hooks??? - Did you mean.....[Image Can Not Be Found]
on Ebay right now for about 6.50 for a pack of 4......
I can get 50 of them for 15.99 (plus shipping - from the US) - Ryanproducts.com
Personally would opt for metal ones. Plastic ones on my new replacement canvas broke after a short while. Replaced with metal "spring" style ones.
Roof - depends if you want a seamless or with a seam.... if at first if you can fix it, great - else you will have to rebuild it.
Coleman's ABS roof can be repair - but would be a "patch" at best - but can be improved by painting the whole roof to disscise it. Making a one piece ABS as a DIY would be not easy. Sheets come to a max width of 48 - and would need to be plastic welded with ABS using a special heat welder to make it seamless. Or seamed - with glue. Can be formed with HEAT GUN(s).
Replacements.......
Fiberglass over thin plywood/foam would get you a stronger - though maybe a bit heaver roof. Seamless and very strong and fixable!
Thin plywood with SPAY-ON-LINER (ie: truck bed stuff) might also work. Coloring it something other than black may be an issue.... No issues with hail ever again (or explosions if you watch Mythbusters - LOL!)
White FRP panels (made with a durable polyester resin and reinforced with fiberglass) but I think are limited to 4 feet wide and not heat form-able - so seams would be needed.
Tin/metal/alum - well - if you have a buddy that does roofs or siding may have a 12 ft bender - would still need a seam. Possible to do a car body style - welded together, bondo sealed and sanded/paint just like a car...Spay foam the inside etc....
Just remember to keep the roof weight to under about 500 lbs - as that is the shipping "listed" weight of a Coleman/Fleetwood 12 ft "replacement" roof (that give you ALLOT of leeway)
(you would so the same above for body panels or cargo bins as well)
Off another forum about replacing Coleman ABS roof with plywood/fiber glass... http://trukx.com/forum/index.php?topic=72097.0
As for the door hinge - I had to fix/replace one of mine on my swing down door/step. (not sure if yours similar to mine or totally different). A strip/bar of metal, a few bolts, drill, die grinder, and a regular grinder - done. The lockable door mechanics was damaged and removed (prior owner) but he put Barrel Bolt Latches on it (and a metal handle). It works (snug) but does not look stock..... worst thing is does not lock.... but its a tent trailer - so open up the bunk end and craw in if you lock it......
Replacement "metal" hooks I steel (pun) them from cheap bungy strap kits (IE: Dollar store) that are like 8-12 inches long...... The company above is still plastic ones.
There are a ton of different style of hinges out there. Many are bulk manufactured (you just have to find WHO manufactures it). A few like Coleman drop down are VERY basic (flat metal with 2 locking nut & bolts - with 2 "custom" metal folding hanging straps). Relativity easy to fix/replace. Others can be "manufactured" with a bit of flat bar, small pipe and solid rod. I made a hinge ONCE out of 1/8" flat steel bar and a metal rod. Not fun but worked. Totally rust after year but worked - was for a raw iron gate.
It would take some work to modify a similar hinge to work. But would replace all hinges so the door swings properly.
Fixing the Wiffletree and lift is a bit harder - but many standard parts (chain, sprockets, ball bearings, Shaft, cables etc). Other company make replacement screws (Wiffletree). Replace the sprint steel ROLL pin on the wiffletree with SOLID ones is recommended. Coleman quitely had a "we recommend" to service people about older models to do that in late 1990s or early 2000s some time.
769
58
1 Guest(s)
