DW and I are going to look at a 2000 Aero Cub Lite C230 tomorrow.
Private sale, $4200.
This is 2nd owner, 7 years now, and it has been parked for 2 years.
He towed it with a v6 rav 4 easily he said.
They sent pictures, and it looks immaculate for its age.
It has its normal wear and blemishes for being 12 years old.
He insists it has had ZERO leak issues.
Awning has some spots where it has worn down, but this is only thing he can think of thats bad
Tires are 2 years new and were kept covered
It is IDENTICAL to this one here.
http://www.jerrystrailers.com/.....n6802.html
So what to look for specifically?
anything that these models are PRONE to or known for with internal , electrical, plumbing or general issues?
thanks.
I have seen 1998-2003 models going no less than 6500 everywhere else.
it weighs 3180lbs with tanks empty.
I have been keeping an eye on info about HTT so that when DW and I make the jump from a popup I will know what the deal is. What I hear the most is that the older ones leak around the bunk seals. I know of someone who went camping in PA in Jan and the front bunk was frozen solid and had to crank the heat up inside for awhile in order to open the bunk. Other than typical stuff to look for, that is what you should really look at, the bunk seals.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
01YZF6,
The price seems like a good deal, I tried to look up the value on nada.com but couldn't find the model.
http://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/.....0/Aerolite
The one thing you want to look for is any water damage throughout the camper, especially around the front bunk. Double check the canvas, mattress and wood for stains. The early years of hybrids didn't include drain tracks across the top of the bunk end, canvas permanently attached to the bunk end, and internal drains so if water got in behind the bunk, it would run down a track and exit. The front bunk was more often the issue because of the wind and rain while driving.
I would look through the camper for any delaminating of the walls and any wet or stained spots under the camper. I'd also take the time to test and understand all the appliances.
thanks for the replies.
It took me awhile to find the NADA on it as well. it i s not an aero lite, an aero cub. it was an off year between dutchmen and thor. NADA lists them with an M class and just the length.
Nada Low puts it as 3960 and high at 6495
I plan on doing a LONG and thorough inspection, as it is 2 hours away from me, did not think of testing the appliances, and now will. also will test the AC. hoping I will be able to test the fridge though.
the owner sounds stand up on the phone and answered all immediate questions. I had.
If you start the fridge before doing anything else you should at least be able to feel if the coil starts to get warm. If it does, it's a good sign that it's working.
Like others said, check and recheck the front bunk seal, and sight down the sides to look for any inconsistencies, which could be a sign of wall delamination.
John
Here's what I'd look at:
- [li]Like everyone else said check the bunk seals. Look for signs of water getting past the seals (i.e., dirt carried in by water). This might be hard if they did a good job cleaning.[/li]
[li]Check the wall and floor around the bunks and other wall/roof perforations looking for signs of water damage - (i.e., warped wall boards or bubbling wall coverings)[/li]
[li]Fully open and close the bunk(s) to check for operation, condition of the canvas, support cables, end-bow, j-hook, wall brackets, bunk door frame, bunk door, etc.. [/li]
[li]Check the seals and operation of any slides. It should go out fairly smoothly and not jump or tip excessively. It might tip slightly as the slide goes out and the center of gravity switches from inside to outside, but it shouldn't be excessive.[/li]
[li]Check the ceiling, especially near the A/C for signs of water damage. Run the A/C if a 30amp circuit is available - might run on a 20amp if everything else possible is disabled.[/li]
[li]Closely inspect the exterior sealant around all wall perforations -- the windows, bunks and hatches[/li]
[li]Bring at least a 6' ladder so you can look at the roof for tears, condition of the sealant around any roof perforations (i.e., antenna, skylights, vents). Remember, HTTs are at least 10' tall, so if you want to actually get up on the roof, you'll need a fairly tall ladder, but a 6' will at least let you look at it.[/li]
[li]Check the fridge (as others have mentioned), stove, oven, microwave, water pump, water heater, sink(s), toilet, dump system, tank level sensors, if you can[/li]
Other than bunk leaks, I don't think they're prone to anything that a typical TT isn't prone to, such as leaks at wall/roof perforations and mechanical/plumbing issues.
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