Author Topic: Mounting bubble levels (long)  (Read 5213 times)

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Offline 01YZF6

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Mounting bubble levels (long)
« on: May 14, 2012, 12:39:43 AM »
Was helping/talking with a neighbor today who just got their first TT.
it is a leftover stock 2010 Sportman 16.  nice little unit too! identical to this one



anyway, it had no bubble levelers on it. so he bought 4 of those nice 3 inch "degree " bubble levelers from camping world.

well, he had no clue how or where to mount them, and we got into a discussion about the best way to do this.

he parked it on the street, unhitched it, and we started using a torpedo level to find the most suitable spot to use as a guide.

I insisted using the campers FRAME, in the center of each wall/end would be the best choice.

well he did not want to get down on the ground and insisted the appliance covers, and windows would work just fine.

I also told him that IF his camper was not true in either direction, we need to do so before mounting them, or he risked mounting the levels wrong too.  again he insisted he could EYEBALL IT, and it would be fine.

Now on a TT, I can see being 1-2* off is ok, but on Pop ups and HTT it is more critical.

FYI, he realized that the frame was more accurate by a LOT, more than a window/vent cover...lol


So how did you mount your levels, and how do you know they are right?

Offline dweaver

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2012, 07:16:42 AM »
He should be able to use a torpedo level on the front tongue and also verify on the floor inside the camper.  They are both the frame so should read the same.  Once level both "front to back" and "side to side", I would mount the levels on the front left or front right of the camper and the second one around the corner on the side.  They can be mounted on the outside wall since the wall in built on the frame and won't move.

The reason for these locations is so you can easily read them while working the tongue jack.  I'd personally put them on the curb side so they are easy to read from the drives side when backing into the site without walking around the camper to see it.

Offline TMMull

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2012, 07:18:24 AM »
The first step in mounting bubble levels should be to set the trailer level. I used a 4 foot level on the floor (some say to use a smaller level on the fridge). You than can mount the bubble levels any where you want.
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Offline 01YZF6

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2012, 05:03:47 PM »
I would have never thought to use the Stove or Fridge for leveling.

in a TT I can see it working, but what about a Pop uP? 

I always leveled the pop up first, using my bubble levels (which I installed using the frame rails level), then raised it, and then stabilized it.

I also used my torpedo level inside AFTER the camper was opened, and checked ot using the counter space or floor.

Offline ment2b

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2012, 05:27:51 PM »
This is the one I have installed.

Offline 01YZF6

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #5 on: May 14, 2012, 06:05:02 PM »
where did you mount that one?

Offline jfilz

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #6 on: May 14, 2012, 06:11:37 PM »
You would mount that one on the top of the A-Frame - normally near the tongue jack.

Offline JoeCamper

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2012, 09:14:26 PM »
I don't own one but this is one of the latest options available for trailer leveling.  They show level both directions and cost about $15-$20.
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Offline JEH412

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Re: Mounting bubble levels (long)
« Reply #8 on: May 15, 2012, 12:39:07 PM »
I don't own one but this is one of the latest options available for trailer leveling.  They show level both directions and cost about $15-$20.

That's the Hopkins Hitch Level (Hopkins part #09715). We have that one on our PUP and really like it. We calibrated it based on a carpenter's level on the floor inside the door. After that, when you back into your campsite, you rotate the housing to show how many inches the low side needs to be raised.

It's very accurate, easy and so far (3 years use) very durable.

John
 

 

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