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Bathroom light switch – rewire somehow
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June 22, 2011 – 11:38 am
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I have a highwall Flagstaff HW27KS. The bathroom has its own seperate light and there is a switch for it on the outside of the door (Thats good). But the stupid part is, its gets is power from the main cabin lights. So when I am ready to go to bed and I click the main wall switch for all 6 overhead lights, then the seperate bathroom lights doesn’t work.

The only way to make it work is not use the main overhead light switch and turn each one off manually, then I can use the bathrooom switch. Thats defeats the purpose of having a wall switch for all the overhead lights.

What I need to do is put the bathroom light and switch on a different power line, so they remain seperate. The big issue is all the wires are fished through the walls and the converter is clear on the other side of the trailer (Same side as the slideout). There isn’t anything close on thats side of the trailer that is 12V that is not an overhead light.

Martini Glass The happiest people don’t have the best of everything, they just make the best of everything that they have!
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June 22, 2011 – 1:51 pm
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Seems to me you’d basically need to wire a "dedicated" line back to the converter. Is the master switch the disconnect also? Or does the galley still provide that function?

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June 22, 2011 – 3:37 pm
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I did some rewiring on my popup but I just cut a hole in the wall under a bench to fish the wires through and didn’t really care how pretty it looked since I have a 1992 popup. 

Since you have a new popup obviously you want to keep everything looking good.  However, since you have a new popup you would think that by now they would know that people may want to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night and they may not want to turn on all the lights in the trailer and have wired it accordingly.  I know my FIL has used fiberglass rods that thread together to run wires through the walls in my house.  They are flexible yet rigid. I do not know what they are called.  I assume something like that would work in a popup.

Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27′ travel trailer.  Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.

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June 22, 2011 – 4:36 pm
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Checking in some of the Forest River forums, this is a common complaint. The wall swtich to turn off the overheads make lots of sense since there are 6 of them (and each also has its own on/off switch). The roof is so tall, it is difficult to reach the individual light switches.

The took the time to put a seperate switch just for the bathroom, so why it wasn’t on a seperate curcuit makes no sense.

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June 22, 2011 – 4:43 pm
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Phil,
They need to be all tied into the kill switch when the roof is down to prevent fire.
I suppose that was the cheapest way for them to do that.
If I remember correctly, my 07 Avalon had the bathroom light separately, but it was tied into the kill switch circuit.
The only problem was that bathroom light was not protected by any walls and still shined into the bunk ends.
I ended up putting some floor leds to leave on at night that didn’t show up in anyone’s eyes.

[IMG]http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/22079/2199875030104498008S600x600Q85.jpg[/img]

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June 22, 2011 – 6:12 pm
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[quote author=Storm Trooper link=topic=895.msg6863#msg6863 date=1308775438]
Phil,
They need to be all tied into the kill switch when the roof is down to prevent fire.
I suppose that was the cheapest way for them to do that.

I am not talking about the kill switch, I am talking abour a regular wall switch. By the door as you come int, here is a wall switch that turns on all the over head lights. There is a seperate wall switch for the bathroom right near the bathroom, but that switch won’t work if the wall switch for the overhead lights is not on. Forest River says, if you want to use the bathroom switch, you need to reach up and turn off each light manually and leave the wall switch on. Then whats the point of the bathroom switch, since I could reach up and turn that one on and off manually also.

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June 22, 2011 – 8:19 pm
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Forest river should supply a foot stool if the roof is too high to turn on/off the lights in the ceiling  :baseballhat:

Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27′ travel trailer.  Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.

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June 22, 2011 – 8:28 pm
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Phil,
I know what exactly you are talking about.
Please read my entire post again.
Forest River did it the cheap way.
I was trying to point out that  if you change the wiring the bath switch should be wired into the kill switch.
Hope this helps.
Lou

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June 22, 2011 – 11:09 pm
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Sorry Lou, I took that as they did it that way so it part of the Kill Switch.

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June 23, 2011 – 7:49 am
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Phil,
You can wire the bath light so that it is part of the roof kill switch, but operates separately of the other roof light switch.
I didn’t like using that bath light at night, because it disturbed others sleeping.
The led floor lights were my way of providing enough light to use the bathroom without disturbing others sleeping and a whole lot easier to install…
Even if you left them on all night, it didn’t affect sleeping in the bunk ends as the light was very directional downward.
Lou

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June 23, 2011 – 8:47 am
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My Pup already has those floor lights, but inside the bathroom its very very dark, not enough to really see to p**

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June 23, 2011 – 12:43 pm
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At home & in our hybrid (when we have electric) we use a good old fashioned plug in nightlight. It gives us just enough light to see, without blinding us out in the middle of the night.

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June 23, 2011 – 6:13 pm
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Phil, you may not want to but could you run a new line under the pup (using BX)?  Without seeing your trailer, i can only assume there is already a hole through the floor at the converter, then you’d only need access up to the bathroom light switch.  If you can remove a panel at the bathroom and drill down, the rest should be easy.  Alternatively, some careful measuring and you could drill from the bottom, between the panels where your light switch is.  Remove the switch and fish a line up.

Just a thought…

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June 24, 2011 – 7:22 am
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Phil – – after getting the tour of your beautiful new camper this past weekend at the Raystown Rally, I understand your need to be able to turn off the main camper lights with a wall switch – I couldn’t believe how high the ceilings were in your highwall.

My opinion is go the easy route like busdriver2wc suggested, i.e. try a nightlight. You can always fiddle with the electric line sometime in the future, for now just enjoy the new camper  🙂

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June 24, 2011 – 8:20 am
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Phil,
I think the KISS method may be the best for this mod.
the light is not used often or for long.
How about one of the stickon battery powered push lights.
I’m sure the batteies would last a season and a whole lot cheaper than wiring it  in.
The nite light wouldn’t be a bad idea, but I don’t think I’ve seen any pups with an electrical outlet in the shoilet area.

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June 24, 2011 – 9:06 am
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[quote author=mtn_bikers link=topic=895.msg6898#msg6898 date=1308914573]
Phil – – after getting the tour of your beautiful new camper this past weekend at the Raystown Rally, I understand your need to be able to turn off the main camper lights with a wall switch – I couldn’t believe how high the ceilings were in your highwall.

I actually has to use a step stool to reach the Air Condiitoning controls..

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July 28, 2011 – 10:19 am
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We finally have a solution to the stupid light switch issue. I spent hours tracing the wires looking for a simple way to take it out of the master switch circuit and put it on a circuit all its own, but still connected to the Roof Safety switch. I have officially given up on that prospect.

What I did was remove the bulb from the light fixture, and installed a GE LED 12" light bar. This comes in a kit from Sam’s. It includes 2 light bars and a Wireless light switch for $27.99. The wireless switch can now stay right on the outside side wall of the bathroom and trigger the light. Its actually brighter than the bulb/fixture it is replacing.

[smg id=378]

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July 28, 2011 – 1:53 pm
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Excellent!!!

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