Tried to set up at a lovely campground in Moundville, Al, but the roof would only go up in one corner. (We snapped the cable by trying to raise the roof with one of the clamps still clamped. Uh-oh.)
So DH and I have some decisions to make. We'll probably tow it to Burton's Campers in Calera to get an estimate. But I've already spoken to the repair guy there and he said it may not be worth repairing on a camper of this age.
So, we may look around and 'trade it in'. Probably wouldn't get much for it. And definitely won't be able to afford one the size of the one we have. It's a 1997 Jayco 1407 Deep Box with bathroom. And we've absolutely loved it. I've never seen another one quite like it.
DH talked about parting it out. Roof a/c, propane heater, holding tanks, water pump, commode, fridge-all in great shape. :'(
So we are definitely open for any and all suggestions. And I will update as decisions are made.
"Oh No" :sotired: I would still get an estimate. Others may say its not worth fixing due to the age, but I look at what it would cost for another similar camper with a bathroom. Plus if you really like it you should fix it. All RV's only loose value, so to me using one as long as you can and enjoying it is what really matters 😉
We had the same issue in June. We arrived at the camp site only to find out the roof would not raise. Good thing the camp site was only a half hour from home.
I took the pop-up in for repair @ 3 Way Campers. We were without the camper for a month. It's high season then. Like taking in a lawn mower for repair in the Spring when everyone else lawn mower is in for repair.
Our camper is old. A 1969 Coleman and we love it! So the repair was worth it but it did run us $500 and a month out of commission.
So for you guys, since you love your camper, a repair is still less than a whole new one.
I got a guesstimate to fix a lift cable of $350 when I was looking at buying a camper with broken cables. From what I understand it isn't that difficult to redo the cables if you take your time and may cost about $50 for the crimping tool and cable.
I agree many may say it isn't worth it to fix it because it is old.....but what would it cost for a similar one? More than the repair probably.
Good luck with it.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
[quote author=mariettamodern link=topic=2014.msg17754#msg17754 date=1351187746]
We had the same issue in June. We arrived at the camp site only to find out the roof would not raise. Good thing the camp site was only a half hour from home.
I took the pop-up in for repair @ 3 Way Campers. We were without the camper for a month. It's high season then. Like taking in a lawn mower for repair in the Spring when everyone else lawn mower is in for repair.
Our camper is old. A 1969 Coleman and we love it! So the repair was worth it but it did run us $500 and a month out of commission.
So for you guys, since you love your camper, a repair is still less than a whole new one.
Yes, MariettaModern, we saw your lovely vintage camper at the Ga Fall Rally. Definitely worth the money to fix the lift system. We definitely plan to get an estimate. It will be $95 just for the estimate. And they won't be able to even look at it to give us the estimate until next week. So if we decide to have it repaired, we might be PUPless for awhile, too.
The problem DH sees with fixing it himself is not being able to raise the roof. Can't even lift it to get our stuff out. It's heavy, esp with the A/C on it. The repair guy said having the bathroom actually complicates repairs, and the fact that it's a 14 footer. He estimates 10 hrs minimum of labor, at $95 an hour. That's just labor. He also said something about roof replacement, and I'm afraid Jayco won't warranty the lift system if we refuse to replace the roof.
I feel that anything under $1500 would be doable. DH said that would be okay, but he worries about what will tear up next, since it's old.
We decided to wait until next week to tow it to the repair shop for an estimate. Burton Campers, the Jayco specialist here, is about an hour drive each way, and we decided it would be better to go Monday or Tuesday.
That's is too bad, Pat. We had our cable system collapse (on the old Vikings, all 4 ends let go at once when one side broke), and it was about $800 to fix it but we also had other damage from the floor being water damaged and the screen door was bent - long story. However, we got it repaired and turned around and sold it for a couple hundred dollars more than we paid - not counting the repairs. The damage cost was really our fault anyway, and it was just too hard for Al to handle the cranking up and mechanics involved with the PUP. When we saw how easy the TrailManor was to set up/take down, that sold Al and I got to continue camping! 🙂
If I were you and after seeing your nice camper, I would really consider getting it repaired and continue to enjoy your unique PUP.
(The man who repaired the camper told us after we paid the bill 8) that he would have done the work at his house on his own time for half the cost!! You might want to make friends with one of the PUP mechanics ahead of time!)
[quote author=GA Judy link=topic=2014.msg17764#msg17764 date=1351203601]
That's is too bad, Pat. We had our cable system collapse (on the old Vikings, all 4 ends let go at once when one side broke), and it was about $800 to fix it but we also had other damage from the floor being water damaged and the screen door was bent - long story. However, we got it repaired and turned around and sold it for a couple hundred dollars more than we paid - not counting the repairs. The damage cost was really our fault anyway, and it was just too hard for Al to handle the cranking up and mechanics involved with the PUP. When we saw how easy the TrailManor was to set up/take down, that sold Al and I got to continue camping! 🙂
If I were you and after seeing your nice camper, I would really consider getting it repaired and continue to enjoy your unique PUP.
(The man who repaired the camper told us after we paid the bill 8) that he would have done the work at his house on his own time for half the cost!! You might want to make friends with one of the PUP mechanics ahead of time!)
I sure wish I knew a repairman that could do that, Judy. But I wonder how the heck they lift that heavy roof??? I assumed a 'dealership' had some kind of special equipment to lift off that roof. Because really, DH is pretty handy, and if he could lift up that dang roof:
1. I could get all my stuff out of it that we packed for the camping trip. 🙁
2. He could check out the cable system himself.
[quote author=surgipat link=topic=2014.msg17766#msg17766 date=1351205813]
But I wonder how the heck they lift that heavy roof??? I assumed a 'dealership' had some kind of special equipment to lift off that roof. Because really, DH is pretty handy, and if he could lift up that dang
Almost all repairs to cables, spring and lift mechanisms are done with the roof in the down position with no tension on the cables and pulleys.
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The happiest people don't have the best of everything, they just make the best of everything that they have! |
[quote author=CampingPhil link=topic=2014.msg17768#msg17768 date=1351207012]
Almost all repairs to cables, spring and lift mechanisms are done with the roof in the down position with no tension on the cables and pulleys.
But Phil, if DH leaves the roof on, he can't get inside. There's an overhead cabinet that slides on runners to the center of the camper between the stove and dinette, (in place of the usual tipover sink) so he can't even shimmy down that aisle to get my stuff out of the cabinets and drawers. Is there outside access to the cables?
When 3 Way Campers did our repairs, they lifted the roof and wedged it open inorder to get inside to fix everything. We drove in the parts yard a few times (because it took them 5 weeks - and Iwound up getting the parts for them via canvasreplacements.com!!) and saw the roof up. We wre worried it might rain and get everything wet, but we were lucky or they were careful. 😮
When the cables actually let go, Pat, we were camping and had to use a long, sturdy tree limb to hold up the front. The reason the roof did not totally collapse was because Al forgot to take the door down and the whole roof "A" framed; hence, the additional repairs on the door.
Wth a SPUT the week before this fiasco, the roof did come down totally and equally on all sides while Al was inside! I had to get my 2 neighbors to help lift the roof in the front to slide out the bed so there was more space for him to crawl down from the dinette and onto the floor so he could "escape" through the door. I don't know if you and Earl could lift high enough to get in there; but if you do, make sure you securely brace opposing ends so it won't come down on you 🙂
Judy, ever since I first became aware of how the roof can collapse, I just cringe. Earl made support posts that we put in all 4 corners every time we camp.
Our cable system broke because I thought I released all 4 clamps, but as it turned out, somehow I missed one. It was a SPUT of the nth degree. I kept yelling to Earl as he cranked: "wait, wait".....but the battery had gone out on his right hearing aid, and that's the side I was standing on trying to get him to quit cranking. Man, he can sure crank that roof. ;D He's pretty strong. He says he wishes he had used the Electric Lift, because then maybe the motor would have burned out before the cable snapped, which we would have preferred. But I guess you can't choose your SPUTS.
The same thing happened to the couple we used to camp with when we all went to Ft. Clinch, FL. She left the latch on and he used a drill to power lift the roof. BOING! This was the next time out post-repairs from our SPUT, so we had the experience to help them out. It also helped that the campground host was a tall, strong, young man who lifted the roof end by himself so nailed together 2x4 "firewood" was used as the support. There's was a Coleman with individual lift arms, so it was only the one that had snapped.
This should help everybody , I've been through this with my Jayco,
Hi,
I'm guessing your at home with the camper now. This is what you do and how I did it.
1) I'm guessing 3 out of 4 cables are working, crank up the camper about 6 to 10 inches , the corner that is broke raise by hand and block it with a piece of wood between the roof and the top frame of the camper. Continue this process untill you get it up between 2 and 3 feet up.
2) Now slide the front bunk out so you can get in and remove the floor panels and in my case on my pop up the wall panel where the shower is , the winch is behind it. If no shower unscrew what ever cabinet or item that is in that position. To back track a step here , the cables run along the floor in the front of the camper , unscrew any panels that maybe covering them too.
3) Figure out if it's a front or back cable, you will be able to tell easly by the slack cable , cable that is not taught or tight.
4) If back cable is broke then a little more work is involved here , the back cables run along the far side wall , away from the door, first remove the panels at the back of the trailer , other sliding bunk slide to see if your lucky enough to have a cable that jumped a pully. Easy fix most of the time , if it isn't the case , you can tell by either seeing broke cable or seeing slack in bad cable, now you know what you have to deal with so to speak.
5) You can go on ebay and get a Jayco Cable set complete for $65.00 , that's where I got my complete set from , they work well.
6) OK , now the work starts here , now that you know what's going on lets replace the cable , step one , loosen the back screw that holds down the square tube that your lifter spring slides in , you maybe able to fish the push block out , the block that pushes the spring , if you can't get it out remove the whole square tube that the push spring slides in but try and not let the spring slide out with it, I know easier said than done , I went through it ! Remove push block . Now install new cable onto push block but remember the corner that the push block cable fastens into HAS TO BE on the same plane - corner as in relationship to the pully that's feeding down into the spring tube or it will bind on you.
7) If the lift spring came out when you removed the spring tube you maybe able to push it back up the wall track and back into the lift tubes, make sure the rivet is still on top of the spring going back up into the lift tube. If it's missing just make sure sure it's not lost up in the lift tube , most likely it fell down inside the wall some place and is gone. You can get one from a Jayco dealer for a buck or two.
If you can't get the lift spring back up the wall this is what you do, Raise your roof in steps listed above untill the roof has at least 3 feet of clearence between the top of camper box and camper roof again using a piece of wood to hold it up right. Now , along the top of the camper box you will see where the lift tubes enter the box , you will see the plate that runs the length of the camper box that the lift tubes slide down into , mine is screwed down , hopefully yours is too and not pop riveted, if pop rivted drill them out and just rerivet them , easy to do , go to sears by a pop rivet gun and some rivets and 10 mins. later it's reinstalled. Now remove plate, you will see 2 screws holding lift tubes in place , take those out and pull lift tube out , the reason why I say to remove tube is to check for damage and also there is a plug that pushes the very top tube up. Check to make sure all is ok with tube parts. If not , Jayco dealer quoted me $45.00 for new 3 stage lift tube on mine. I didn't need one and took that price by phone. I'm still wondering if it's the right price really. Seemed to cheap to me !
9) While tube is out , slide the spring down the tube hole and it should follow the track back down twords the spring tube on the floor. Next feed the spring into the tube but first load the push block into the spring tube , then spring next. Fasten to floor by bolts or screws , fasten cable eyes bolts onto cable block , the square block that has the four cables fastened to it to the pull block that all four cables fasten to that lift the top.
10) Now reinstall lift tube back into side wall of camper feeding the lift spring into lift tube. Make SURE the lift spring will seat correctly against lift plug that pushes top tube up. Easy to tell , you will feel it seat when you push it in , reninstall plate you removed off of wall of camper and you should be good to except adjust cable that was replaced.
11) If any parts are broke , just find a good welder , that's what I did , cost me $10 bucks to get parts rewelded, welding isn't the best from the factory , sure beats cost of new parts unless parts are completly shot , then replace as needed.
12) I know this sounds like alot but consider the cost of a dealership charge , if you're a ok back yard mechanic then you should be fine doing this.
13) Little note here , what I went through , if your new cable is coming up 2 inches short or so from fastening to the 4 hole pull block , then your push spring is NOT all the way up in the lift tube, took me a while before the light bulb went on in my head so to speak to figure that one out !
Hope this helps , there are blue prints on line of the pully system you have, take a look at them so you get a good idea how all is routed in the camper.
Any more questions feel free to email me , maybe a day or so before I get back to you but I will. Good luck ,
Todd.
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