The threads inside my tongue jack slip at a certain point. I know I can use wood to set it up so it doesn’t reach the point where it slips, but I’ve still had issues with it and would rather fix the problem rather than try to manage it.
How do I even begin to know what to buy? In the weekly circular for Harbor Freight they have this on sale next week
Keep your trailer on the level with this easy-to-use swing-back trailer jack. Installs in minutes, no welding necessary.
* Mounts permanently to trailer tongue – folds away when traveling
* Heavy duty 1/8" rolled steel construction
* Two-position lock
* Spring-loaded lock pin
* Comes with assembly hardware
Trailer tongue weight: 1000 lb.
Height range: 12-1/2" to 24"
Wheel diameter: 5-3/4"
My PUP is 1650 lbs dry I think.
Do you think this would be ok? do I need something bigger or more heavy duty? The way it’s held onto the trailer doesn’t look very heavy duty, and although I want to stay on the lower pricing, I want to do it right the first time.
Thanks for all your help!!
That’ll work as long as you have room to bolt it on the side of the A-frame without hitting propane tanks or mounts. Coleman/Fleetwood used that style on many models for a long time, but they’re really seen most on boat trailers that have a straight tongue.
Does your PUP currently have an A-frame jack (mounted right at the point of the A, inside the frame rails) or a side mount like the HF model? If it’s an A-frame mount, they’re most often just bolted on and can be directly replaced.
Harbor Freight also carries those or you can find them at Wal-Mart.
Your trailer weight is 1650#, not your tongue weight. The tongue weight is probably 200#. The jack only has to lift tongue weight.
The ones provided on most newer Fleetwoods/Colemans by BAL were rated for 800#.
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That will work. Also on most Colemans, the tongue jack is off centered so don’t worry about the fact that if you bolt this on the frame it will be off centered. When you are in the pup you will have your stabilizers on all 4 corners as well.
I have had this style of jack on my utility trailer for 10 years now. It isn’t exactly installed properly due to the size and width of the frame and I have wood wedged in certain spots. That tongue jack has had much much weight on it for long periods of time, pushed around, walked in the trailer, etc and I have not had a problem with it. One of these years I will mount it better, but it has been like that for 10 years and I have many other projects to do.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27′ travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
I was going to ask about this very same thing. As we have a 85 coleman. And the jack with wheel on the tongue will not turn, its caulked to the side, so you cant push or pull the pup. And its welded on to the frame.
So I’m thinking of just leaving it in the up position. And installing one of these on the other side. Then I can use one to move it an both for better support when parked.
I added a Norther Tool version of the swivel jack. My original Shelby’s wheel didn’t care to turn freely. I use both when moving the PU in and out of the garage or positioning at the campsite. The swivel jack developed ‘slop’ in short order but still is useful.
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