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Door pops open
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5 Posts
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August 23, 2013 - 6:06 pm
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When my wife and I both get into the pull out bed the weight flexes the wall enough that the door becomes unlatched. We have the two support poles that go from the tongue of the trailer to the bottom of the pull out, but they are angled away from the camper pulling on the wall when weight is added. I think I need vertical support instead of angled support. Does anyone have any sugestions? I installed a cable that goes from the front wall to the frame. It helps but not completely.

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August 23, 2013 - 11:47 pm
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Just a thought.  Are you snugging the stabilizers down and putting them on a pad or board?  The weight of the bunk being out would cause some flex, but the stabilizers should keep the flex on the outside of the box and not along the frame.

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August 24, 2013 - 1:17 am
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[quote author=Jarhead71 link=topic=2690.msg25560#msg25560 date=1377316035]
Just a thought.  Are you snugging the stabilizers down and putting them on a pad or board?  The weight of the bunk being out would cause some flex, but the stabilizers should keep the flex on the outside of the box and not along the frame.

Yes. My thoughts also.  Try cranking the stabs down just a bit tighter.  If you have the pop down stabs (like mine). Then level the camper (roof still down). Then lower the tongue till the bubble is just inside the level marks, drop down the rear stabs. Then raise the tongue till the bubble is just inside the marks, drop the front stabs, then lower the tongue till bubble is dead center.
That should fix the problem if it is loose stabs.

Of course a rotton wall/floor is possible. Try the stabs first though.

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August 24, 2013 - 9:17 am
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I will try the stabilizers, the short wall between the front wall and door, also the rail that the bunk slides into is only 1 1/2' long the bunk is 4 1/2' long. So the bunk slide teeter toters on the front wall. 4 1/2' will win over 1 1/2' It only flexes about 1/2" to 3/4".

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August 24, 2013 - 9:47 am
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I ran a cable with turn buckles at an angle from the front wall through the floor to the frame. It helped a little, next I will try a cable from the rail (that the bunk slides into) to the eye bolt I connected to the frame.

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August 24, 2013 - 10:54 am
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yghp, think you are on the right track.

Since the supports are angled, the bed slides are in tension, the more weight the more the tension pulling on the PU and the teeter totter lifting the short wall.

A screen door spring will keep it closed but it doesn't help with the loss of structural integrity that has occurred over time.

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August 27, 2013 - 8:12 am
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The diagonal and vertical cable solved the problem. Thanks for the ideas 🙂

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705 Posts
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August 27, 2013 - 10:08 am
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I have that issue too, but due to the shape of my camper I've just ignored the problem.  Instead I just un-velcro on the top side of the door and 'lock' the door part into the storage position to keep it closed.  It's a pain, but it works enough.  I think I may try a spring on the door though!

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