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Water Pump Accumulator Tank
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3 Posts
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November 29, 2011 - 1:00 pm
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Keep the water flowing in your camper with reduced pump noise by installing an accumulator tank.

Your campers water pump's job is to keep the pressure stabilized within the water system, so it will cycle on and off whenever you open a faucet or flush the toilet. Water pumps can be noisy, especially in the middle of the night when someone uses the toilet. A water pump accumulator tank will help to hold the water system under pressure, which means the pump won't have to run as often. Over time, the accumulator tank can extend the life of your water pump, because the pump will cycle on and off less often.

How the Tank Works
The accumulator tank has an internal bladder that stores air, holding water in the tank and in your water system under pressure. When a faucet is opened, the water from the accumulator tank will be used first. When the accumulator's storage tank is exhausted, the water pump will turn on to maintain pressure in the water system.

Where to Locate Your Tank
There is no need to mount the accumulator tank right next to the water pump. It can even be located some distance away, where you have room and easy access to it. Just be sure to install the accumulator on the outlet side of the water pump, not between the water storage tank and the water pump.

Mount the accumulator tank vertically, with the air valve up. This makes it easier to check the amount of pressure in the system, and to recharge the accumulator tank with air as necessary.

You can install the accumulator in-line, using the inlet and outlet sides of the accumulator, or with a "T-fitting" off of the water line, capping the outlet side of the accumulator. The accumulator tank will still fill with water and hold pressure in the system, even if it isn't mounted in-line.

Installing
Before installing an accumulator tank, be sure to turn off the water pump. Also make sure you're not connected to "shore water," bringing water into your RV from an external source.

Use water tubing and hose clamps, or braided flexible tubing such as that used to install sinks in homes. You may find it easiest to install the hoses to the accumulator tank first, and than install the accumulator onto its supplied bracket.

If using standard water hose, cut the water system hose on the outlet side of the pump, and slip a hose clamp over each end of the hose. Tighten the barbed fittings into the accumulator tank, first wrapping them with Teflon thread tape. Push the hoses onto the barbs, and tighten the hose clamps.

If using braided flexible tubing, get the correct adapters when you purchase the braided tubing. Install the adapters into the accumulator tank, again using Teflon thread tape. Then tighten the flex tubing onto the fittings.

Testing
Precharge the accumulator tank with air using a standard Schrader air valve, the familiar type of valve used on bicycle and car tire tubes. Before using your new accumulator tank, check the pressure at the valve with a air pressure gauge. Most systems are set to around 20 lbs. per square inch (psi). Follow the manufacturer's suggestions, and pressurize the tank if necessary.

Turn on the water pump and check for leaks. Your water pump should run long enough to pressurize the system and fill the new tank, and then remain off as your accumulator tank fills the demand for water and keeps the system pressurized.

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333 Posts
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November 29, 2011 - 2:58 pm
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If you're in the market for a pump, but don't have the room for an accumulator, another idea to help prevent frequent pump cycling and premature death is to get one that has an internal bypass.  The bypass is an adjustable pressure sensitive valve which allows water to bypass the pump's outlet line and recycle internally, only providing enough water out the outlet to satisfy the demand.  This means that when you turn on the water somewhere in the camper at any flow rate above a trickle, the pump will turn on and stay on until you turn the fixture off.  The only downside to the bypass is that with the pump constantly running, you're using more power from your battery if you're camping without electrical hookups, if that's a concern for you, an accumulator might make more sense. Given that we infrequently camp without at least electric, it's not a big concern of mine, though.

Upgrading your pump can also help considerably with noise.  The OEM pumps are usually low-end models.  They tend to have fewer features, lower flow rates, are louder and less reliable. 

When I was in the market for a new pump, I decided to look around for a new pump that took care of both the cycling and noise problems.  I ultimately chose ShurFlo's Revolution series.  It was about twice as expensive (around $80) as the low-end pumps (around $40), but it was by no means at the high end ($200).  It's so quiet that it's actually hard to tell if it's running at all unless it's absolutely silent in the camper.

I'd be very surprised if these features are limited to that particular line or manufacturer, though.  Shop around online, read reviews and compare specs. 

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