Does any one know where to get the lift system chain for a 85 Coleman Chesapeake.
I have a 84 Parts manual for all the series. And it shows every thing but the chain. So dies that mean I can take my old one to a bike store and get a new one.
The problem is. When we got this old pup. The chain was so loose we removed a link and half to tighten it up. But now think its to tight. As its hard to turn and put up.
So this weekend we are going to drill out the rivets and check the chain and was going to add back one of the links. But dont you know. I cant find the links I was sure I saved. So might be easier to just get a new chain the right size. Or maybe I can get a link added at a bike shop or some thing.
Sharon
It sounds like something is misaligned/binding. If the chain was so loose that you could take a link out and now it is too tight....I'd say something is binding.
I am not familiar with your pup, but I know some of the Colemans from that generation had 2 locations where you could put the crank. One in the upper corner where it sounds like yours is and that is connected via a chain to a bar in the middle at the bottom. Some models had that center bar extend out so you could put the crank in the center....but it is a PIA with the propane and battery there. My 85 Columbia had the crank only in the center but no battery and no propane tank. Or you could crank it in the easier spot and that was connected with a chain. Can you crank it in the center?
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
I do have both location to crank from, But have a propane tank there.
Should I see a difference between cranking from the top and cranking from the bottom center?
I can try it this weekend and see if it makes any difference.
I checked Tractor supply online (which is around the corner) and they have "Roller Chain" in #35 for $16.99 for 10 feet. And from what I have read online on other pup groups. That is standard number size chain. So I will check the measurements and and just get a new chain if it matches size. http://www.tractorsupply.com/r.....35-1150036
Found this link to check the size of your chain.
http://www.gokartsupply.com/chain.htm
I informed the hubby we would be digging in to the chain on the pup this weekend, He said okay since I will be doing most of the work. LOL
Sharon
I would try cranking from the center point. If you can crank it from there, then the problem is between the chain and the upper crank. If it is still difficult to crank from the lower point, then the issue is with the whiffle tree, pulleys and cables down there. I have never messed with that stuff.
Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer. Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.
Im pretty sure the problem isn't with the whiffle tree, Pulleys or Cables.
As we have been in there, relubed the whiffle tree, replaced a few of the eye bolts and replaced all the cables and checked out the pulleys when we did the total restoration.
Im thinking its with the chain because, when we got it, it would go up but every 3rd turn, it would pop. We took the front off and could see that the chain was so loose it was jumping off the sprocket, and yes, they have all their teeth. So im thinking the chain is to tight. So that is where I will start.
Here is my blog post about that, so you can see the difference in the chain before and after.
http://campingandgardening.blo.....-yall.html
Sharon
[quote author=rsmobley85 link=topic=1460.msg11760#msg11760 date=1331859700]
Should I see a difference between cranking from the top and cranking from the bottom center?
I can try it this weekend and see if it makes any difference.
I checked Tractor supply online (which is around the corner) and they have "Roller Chain" in #35 for $16.99 for 10 feet. And from what I have read online on other pup groups. That is standard number size chain. So I will check the measurements and and just get a new chain if it matches size. http://www.tractorsupply.com/roller-chain-size-35-1150036
Sharon
Yes, you should feel a difference, the center should feel harder to crank. The center point is a direct connection while the upper has a mechanical advantage with the different size sprocket.
If TSC has the right chain, you're good to go. And since it was "popping" and the chain was loose, that certainly sounds like the problem.
John
Sharon, You probably can get away with just adding what's called a half link. It's a common fix for chains that have non adjustable sprockets if you look closely at my lift chain master link you can see that I needed a half link in mine to get the proper tension. You just have to make sure you get the proper chain size link.
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You should not have to drill out the link pins. They can be pushed out with a chain tool and reused.
Try this link.
Hm, if the center crank is tighter then the top, Then I don't know if it will even turn. Or maybe it will turn easier if the top is the problem. Wont know till I get out there this morning. Just ate my cheerios. So have to get hubby up to help me move the canoe off the pup. And get started.
RhinoDave. Thanks for the info on the half links. I will check for those when I go see about the chain. After I get this on off so I can check the size.
Now, I have a question?
How do I know the right tension of the chain? I posted a link to the picture on my blog of the before and after. You can see in the first one way to much slack and none in the second. Should there be a little slack.
When I did this originally, I got help from the other pup forum and they said it didn't matter how tight the chain was. But I have always thought this was the problem. I'm really excited to get in there and see if it is. You just don't know how hard this thing is to turn. Takes two hands and good momentum.
Back later when we get some work done.
Sharon
Quick Update!
Holy Cow! We took off the propane tank and the storage box and tried cranking from the bottom center post, and wow, it was so easy, you could turn it with one hand. And we put on the drill and home made socket Jenie and it went up so easy. But we cant leave it like this as we need the propane tank and storage box.
My hubby and I just looked at each other and said "Wow". Okay we have to fix the top crank with the chain. As this is the only issue we have with the pup to make it perfect.
So we are in the process of drilling out the rivets that hold the front on, and will deal with the chain issue next.
Sharon
[quote author=rsmobley85 link=topic=1460.msg11775#msg11775 date=1331991156]
Now, I have a question?
How do I know the right tension of the chain? I posted a link to the picture on my blog of the before and after. You can see in the first one way to much slack and none in the second. Should there be a little slack.
When I did this originally, I got help from the other pup forum and they said it didn't matter how tight the chain was. But I have always thought this was the problem.
Sharon
Yes, it does matter how tight the chain is. Too tight and it binds the mechanism, making it harder to crank and puts a lot more stress on the whole system. So, your thought was right!
I don't know exactly how much tension, but, I think, a good point would be if you can push the chain about an inch or so, in the center between the sprockets. I saw your blog pics of the original chain. No wonder it was jumping teeth!!
John
We went to Tractor supply and got the #35 chain links and half links. Not bad prices, the whole links were 4 in a bag for 2.99 and the half links 4 in a bag were 4.99
My chain already had a half link so we added a whole link and put it on and tried it. And it was to loose. It jumped teeth just like it did in the beginning. So I took it off and added another half link and now. Its still a little tight, but not as tight as it was, but its not jumping teeth so its as good as its going to get.
My hubby said he can tell its a little easier to crank. So I guess a little is better then none.
Got the front all riveted back on, And opened it up and letting it air out.
Tomorrow I'm going to work on another mod. A cover for out stove that dont have one and a cover for the sink.
Sharon
I have a PDF manual on Coleman/Fleetwood lift system. Covers 1968 till 2000
See:
rvworkshop.com/sc_images/products/Coleman_Lift_Systems.pdf
It had how to adjust most chain systems (page 13)
Normally you DON'T have to completely remove the whole panel
2 methods are covered:
- Adding a shim or washers
- Half link
You may have to do ONE or BOTH methods.
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