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How to fix this.
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81 Posts
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May 8, 2013 - 9:28 am
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I am trying to decide the best way to fix this.  Is the best to use fiberglass.

[img width=640 height=426]http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii101/rbooth333/368_zpsc0462c10.jpg[/img]

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639 Posts
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May 8, 2013 - 9:37 am
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Can you post a picture of where this is located? (Zoom out)

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81 Posts
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May 8, 2013 - 10:24 am
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This is the very front of the trailer just to the right of the propain tank.  Where the storage compartment is.

If you need a different pic I will have to wait till i get off work this evening. 

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639 Posts
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May 8, 2013 - 6:13 pm
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I don't need one. I haven't a clue how to fix it other than cover it with a tarp. But the engineers on this site just might.

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236 Posts
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May 8, 2013 - 6:29 pm
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I would repair it using the west system. Its a 2 part epoxy and cloth system. Its a great easy to use system.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

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2545 Posts
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May 8, 2013 - 9:32 pm
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102 uses for duck tape  :thumbup:

That is some sort of funny plastic and someone melted legos to fix something similar one time.  If you can take the front panel off or get to hit through the box I would screw or glue a piece of wood behind it to support it and then just goop it up with caulk.

Matt O 2006 Skyline Nomad 27' travel trailer.  Previously owned 1986 Coleman Columbia / 1992 Coleman Senecca / 1989 Born Free Class C RV.

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Eastern Pennsylvania
3876 Posts
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May 9, 2013 - 8:13 pm
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If you can access behind this area, I'd epoxy a few tabs across the crack to strengthen the area.  After it sets up, epoxy the crack and then you can paint it.  My camper is the same ABS and if you only seal the crack without strengthening the back, it will flex and open up again. Trust me!  :banghead:

I can post a few picture from a similar project in the back corner of my camper.

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175 Posts
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May 9, 2013 - 9:34 pm
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I think JoeCamper is on the right track.  I would slather some epoxy on a piece of flexible luan, press it on the backside first.  Predrill through the front into the luan and run a several sheet metal screws through the plastic and into the luan.  After the epoxy sets up, remove the screws and apply several layers of resin fiberglass and fabric to it, sanding in between coats.  I had to rebuild the top hatch on my cargo compartment on my old Rockwood because it was thin and cracked.  I had virtually no experience with the stuff, but I followed the mixing directions, used a couple of cheap paintbrushes, and it turned out great.  Use disposable gloves, have some acetone ready for runoff and use in a ventilated area.  Good Luck!

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81 Posts
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May 10, 2013 - 4:36 pm
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[quote author=JoeCamper link=topic=2453.msg23524#msg23524 date=1368144831]
If you can access behind this area, I'd epoxy a few tabs across the crack to strengthen the area.  After it sets up, epoxy the crack and then you can paint it.  My camper is the same ABS and if you only seal the crack without strengthening the back, it will flex and open up again. Trust me!  :banghead:

I can post a few picture from a similar project in the back corner of my camper.

If you could post some pics it would be great. 
Jarhead what is a luan,  I dont know what that means or is.

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Eastern Pennsylvania
3876 Posts
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May 10, 2013 - 7:13 pm
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Luam is a thin flexible board like Masonite.  Might not be a good idea if there is a chance it might get wet.

I used pieces of ABS (plastic) from material I got from a local dealer.  It's the same material that you have at the damage.  They had left from warranty roof and panel repairs.  I can mail you some if you want to use it?

I was able to epoxy several tabs behind one side of the crack (clamp or tape it) and then epoxy the second side a few days later.  I used blue painters tape to pull the two sections together until it dried.  Then did the crack itself.

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215 Posts
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May 11, 2013 - 8:21 am
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30 years ago when modern plastics weren't half as accessible as they are now (not to mention a complete lack of internet sources), I used a layer of heavy aluminum on the inside of my 3-wheeler fenders to repair a nasty fracture very much like that.  I used pop rivets along each side and fastened the aluminum on the bottom where you couldn't see it.  I drilled everything first, then used a layer of epoxy between the aluminum and the fender and finally, I put the rivets in and pulled them down while the epoxy was wet.  If you could find some very heavy aluminum flashing or something equally stiff, yet formable so you could follow the contour nicely.  I know it sounds like a Frankenstein patchwork, but if you're neat about your drilling and follow the cracks evenly, it really ends up a decent looking repair.

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81 Posts
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May 11, 2013 - 8:53 pm
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[quote author=JoeCamper link=topic=2453.msg23553#msg23553 date=1368227620]
Luam is a thin flexible board like Masonite.  Might not be a good idea if there is a chance it might get wet.

I used pieces of ABS (plastic) from material I got from a local dealer.  It's the same material that you have at the damage.  They had left from warranty roof and panel repairs.  I can mail you some if you want to use it?

I was able to epoxy several tabs behind one side of the crack (clamp or tape it) and then epoxy the second side a few days later.  I used blue painters tape to pull the two sections together until it dried.  Then did the crack itself.

Any special epoxy to use.  Brand or formula

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336 Posts
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May 11, 2013 - 9:54 pm
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If you can't get some ABS as mentioned above, you might be able to use a cutting board as the backing.
The thin white plastic type is perfect.

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1 Posts
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August 15, 2013 - 7:28 am
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Question for the group I have a rockwood premiere 1999 that is having some age issues.  The floor that you go into the camper at the doorway is got a hole in the subfloor.  This looks to be a 1 inch fiberboard.  My question is can I cut a section out and fit in another piece to repair the whole in the floor or is this a big job that requires more than a novice can do.  Thanks,

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